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What is airsoft? This guide is
intended to give an overall understanding into the world of airsoft that is general and
easy to understand. While some topics are more in-depth, no topic in this guide
is completely covered from head to toe as we merely touch the most common need to
know basics of each topic.
**For a quicker guide to these topics that
contains only the most essential information please see: Airsoft 101 
Guide
to BB’s
Sometimes it’s the
smallest piece of the puzzle that is most important! Low quality cheap BBs will
cause your airsoft gun to have continual problems and cost you more money in repairs and problems
than its worth. AirRattle highly recommended to purchase high quality precision
BBs from a reputable airsoft supplier such as airrattle.com. High quality BBs
provides many advantages such as accuracy, reliable, power and reduces the
chance of gun malfunction and breakage significantly. Low quality BBs such as
the BBs purchased at various sporting goods stores as well as retail outlets
and most of the ammo provided in the box with the airsoft gun, have a large
number of potential hazards. With low quality BBs the number of things that can
go wrong are numerous but the most common issues are shattering and jamming.
Shattering happens because of poor materials, inconsistent sizing and voids
(air pockets) inside the BB’s. When a BB shatters it can create blockage which
can cause jams. On a good day these are easy fixes and can be fixed using a
clearing rod, but on a bad day they will cause a surge of back pressure which
can strip the gears or destroy the piston; both will require professional
repair. With this is mind spending a little more for quality ammo will not only
improve your overall performance but will likely save you money in the end. In
addition to using high quality BBs it is recommended that BBs not be reused as
they can be warped or dirty which can cause the same problems as using low
quality BBs. Lastly the most important thing to note about using lower grade
BBs is that in many cases it will void most warranties.
Explanation of
quality ammo and its usage: Quality ammo comes in
varieties of materials and weights each having its own purpose. Mostly plastic
ranging in weights from .20g to over .40g and ranging in sizes around 6mm.
Higher grade BB’s will have tighter tolerances and will remain closer to 6mm. High
grade BB’s are seamless and are consistent in size and weight.
Materials:
Plastic
The majority of the
BB’s fall into this category and can be used for play or practice. Best used
for indoor play or target practice where they can be collected when finished.
Biodegradable
Biodegradable BBs are
made of special resin which allows them to degrade over time into the earth
whereas regular BBs will stick around for at least several hundred years. Many
outdoor fields require Biodegradable BBs to be used. These BB are of the same
quality standards as plastic and follow the same guidelines for precision; both
in weight and size.
Metallic
Not generally
available from retailers and are not to be used for anything other than target
practice. These BBs can potentially shatter ANSI goggles and facemasks. These
should generally be avoided.
Paintballs
6mm paintballs are
available from various retailers but should not be used in any gun with hop-up
or hi-cap magazines as these things can cause the paintballs to shatter which
will create a mess and will render the weapon useless until thoroughly cleaned.
Weights:
The weight of the
projectile (BB) has a large effect on its flight characteristics. Heavier BBs
tend to fly more accurately over a greater distance. With this in mind they will
travel at a lower FPS but still have about the same kinetic energy as a lower
weight BB shot from the same gun.
Popular
Weights
- .12g - Extremely
common weight, most factory guns are use this weight to track FPS. These BB’s
should not be used in anything but low end guns, as they could cause damage to
the internals of an AEG.
- .20g – Very Common
and very popular weight, this is the minimum recommended weight for higher end
AEGs and Gas guns.
- .25g –This is a
fairly common weight and is growing in popularity as it provides better
accuracy at a longer range but lower FPS. This is the heaviest weight
recommended for mid range and Stock AEGS.
- .30g- .30g and higher
weights are typically used by high FPS sniper rifles and provide the best
accuracy at the longest of ranges. These are not recommended for mid to lower
range stock AEGs.

How
airsoft guns work
An airsoft gun is an
air powered gun that generally shoots 6mm round projectiles (other sizes do
exist but are less common). Most airsoft guns are replicas of existing firearms
and are typically used for military simulation. Typical airsoft guns make use
of compression for launching its projectiles. With this in mind there are essentially two
types of compression used; the first being spring which includes Electric and
manual types, and Gas compression which includes Green Gas (Propane with
Silicone Lubricant), CO2, and HFC – 134a. Additionally each propulsion system has
several sub categories which it can be broken down into which provides slight
variations in functionality.
Electric
Spring Powered (AEGs and AEPs)
Airsoft Electric Guns
(AEG) are among the most popular airsoft guns for skirmish play as they have high
capacities, high rates of fire and decent accuracy. AEGS work on electric as
the name implies, the battery powers the motor which turns the gears which
draws the piston back on the spring. When the piston is drawn it creates
tension on the string. The tension stored in the spring determines how hard
(FPS) the AEG will shoot. When the tension is released on the spring the piston
shoots forward compressing the air which then propels the BB down the barrel.
Airsoft Electric Pistols (AEP) work in a very similar manner to the larger
AEG’s just on a smaller scale.
Things
to note about AEG’s
- AEG’s have gear boxes
that either use plastic or metal gears. Metal gear boxes are much more durable
and can support stronger springs and more robust internals making them much
more reliable in addition to being more powerful.
- Increasing the
battery voltage will not increase the power (FPS) of the gun; it will however
increase the rate of fire. By increasing the rate of fire will likely cause
additional wear on the gear box and its supporting systems (Motor, Spring and Spring
guide, Piston, ect).
- AEG’s are complex
machines and will require regular maintenance and some care to keep it in good
working order. Like most machines most AEG’s will eventually require repairs
and those repairs should be left to someone who is qualified.
- Both AEGs and AEPs
have models capable of electric blowback action (EBB).
Manual
Action Spring Guns (Springers)
Springers are a
technological step back from the AEGs and AEPs, while still using a spring
compression propulsion system the user is required to manually draw the spring
into compression which is referred to as working the action. These still work
by drawing back the piston which stores tension on the spring. When the trigger
is pulled the spring tension is released which pushes the piston forward
creating compression which propels the projectile (BB) down the barrel. These
guns tend to be on the cheaper end of the curve but happen to be very reliable
as there is less that can go wrong.
Things
to note about Manual Spring Guns
- Because the action is
powered manually; semi auto and full auto are not available.
- While Manual Spring
Guns are typically considered lower end guns this category includes bolt action
spring sniper rifles which can be very expensive and very high quality.
- Spring Guns are the
most Common Gun and are widely available from a large number of retailers.
Gas Powered Guns
Gas Guns offer some
of the most realistic replica gun options and operate much the same as a
paintball gun. A gas gun has a storage tank for a pressurized gas (generally in
the magazine) which holds green gas, propane, HFC-134a or CO2. When the trigger
is pulled the tank valve is opened which releases the pressurized gas into the
gun which propels the projectile (BB) down the barrel. Generalization is
required as the specific details for how this works changes from gun to gun and
is slightly different between CO2 and the other gases.
Things
to note about Gas powered guns
- Gas
Guns are generally handguns and sub machine guns, but rifles and sniper rifle
guns do exist.
- Gas
Guns are semi automatic and some have the option for full auto as well.
- These
guns are among the most realistic but also require a fair amount of care and
maintenance, more so than the other airsoft guns.
- They
come in Blowback and Non blowback varieties, blowback being the most realistic
and feature a moving slide which recoils like a real firearm. Blowback gas guns
require more attention as they have additional moving parts. The downside to
blowback is that it can sacrifice gas efficiency and power to provide the
recoil energy.
- Green
Gas is basically propane combined with silicone lubricant because of this,
adapters are sold to use propane in Green Gas guns, it is important to remember
to add silicone to the mixture.
- Green
Gas, Propane and HFC-134a are susceptible to climate change and are generally
not recommended for use in cold environments. CO2 however is slightly less
susceptible to this.
Guide
to Batteries
Many myths surround
batteries in the airsoft world and there are lots of conflicting stories about
many aspects on different batteries. While this guide will not cover everything
it will give you a general understanding of how things work. What it basically
boils down to is voltage and milliamp hours (mAh). There are other factors that
do apply but are beyond the scope of this article. Voltage will determine rate
of fire and milliamp hours will determine how long the battery lasts while
being used. Various things will change how long the battery lasts such as
ambient temperature and how much current is being drawn. In lower temperatures
the battery will not last as long as it will on a nice summer day. While many
factors still apply that haven’t been covered the basic rules should suffice
for keeping your getting the most out of your batteries and guns without
causing additional wear on the gun. With stock guns of the midrange variety it
is not recommended running voltages higher than 8.4v. Higher voltages will
cause the motor to spin faster causing the gears to turn faster which causes
additional wear and tear on the internals. Higher end guns can withstand this
extra stress but lower to midrange guns will strip gears, pistons, crack
gearboxes, burn out trigger contacts and various other issues that will cause
the gun to stop working. In the end it boils down to higher voltage equals higher
rate of fire and more stress on the gun. Keep in mind that this is a generality
and doesn’t exactly remain true when Lithium Polymer batteries are thrown into
the mix. For more information about how Lithium Polymer batteries play into
this mix see the LiPo section.
Types
of Batteries
The following are the
two most common types of batteries each has its own purpose and each has its
own advantages and disadvantages.
NiMH
– Nickel Metal Hydride
These are by far the
most commonly used battery. The main advantage when compared to LiPo batteries
is its relative low cost by comparison. The other large advantage over LiPo
batteries is that they are commonly available and can be put into nearly every
airsoft gun without any modification. The primary disadvantage to NiMH
batteries is the overall size and weight compared to output. LiPo batteries can
output similar voltages with similar capacities with a smaller footprint.
LiPo
– Lithium-ion Polymer
LiPo batteries have
many misconceptions about them and without a solid understanding of electronics
it is difficult to truly explain how and why these batteries perform better at
lower voltages. The simple explanation is to think of the two batteries as
glasses of water. While they both contain the same water (have the same
voltage), the LiPo battery has a thicker straw. This allows the same about of
water to be delivered much more quickly. Basically LiPo batteries allow a
larger current draw which provides better performance. While this isn’t 100%
accurate it does provide a basic understanding. An example is that a 7.4v LiPo
can slightly out perform a 8.4v NiMH battery of similar quality. This being
understood the one of the primary advantage to LiPo batteries are that they
will provide the best performance for high end and highly modified guns. The
other advantage over NiMH is that they are smaller and lighter so higher output
batteries can be fit into smaller spaces on guns that are too small to allow a
NiMH battery of similar voltage and capacity. While these batteries have some
serious advantages over NiMH batteries they do have several disadvantages. The
first disadvantage is the cost, these batteries cost significantly more than
NiMH. Another disadvantage is the complexity, these batteries require some
serious care and attention must be carefully paid, as these batteries require
cell balancing and must use a smart charger which incurs more cost. The final
disadvantage is that these batteries can be somewhat dangerous if not handled
properly.
Charging
Batteries
Batteries can be a
confusing thing to someone just getting into airsoft, as instructions are
somewhat limited. The best recommendation is to buy a smart charger and forgo a
lot of the confusion and frustration that comes with charging a battery with a
standard wall charger. For those who are on a budget and will be using the
basic wall charger some guidelines must be followed. Before we discuss the
guidelines it is important to not the consequences of not following these
guidelines. Not following the guidelines can at very least significantly
shorten the life of your battery and at worst can cause combustion. The
guidelines are designed as an attempt to prevent overcharging the battery. First and foremost never charge the battery
pack unattended, it is important to keep an eye on the battery and to check its
temperature from time to time, if it gets to hot disconnect the battery and
wait for it to cool. The next equally important part of these guidelines is
determining the output of the charger; this will be rated in mAh and located
somewhere on the charger, normally it is around 300 to 600 mAh and varies from
charger to charger. Once you locate this number you divide the capacity of your
battery by the output of the charger. For example if your battery capacity is
1500 mAh and the charger output is 500 mAh you would charge a completely dead
battery for 3 hours. Since your battery is unlikely completely discharged
you’ll have to estimate some and reduce the charge time. An important side note
is that NiMH do not need to be conditioned nor do they suffer from “battery
memory” so completely discharging the battery is not required, this is an
extremely common myth and more information can be easily found with a little be
of searching. While discharging completely might not be required it may be useful
in order to insure the battery does not get overcharged. Following these steps
should increase the life of your batteries as most battery damage occurs from
leaving them on the charger overnight. Properly charged batteries can last you
over a year if cared for. In the end the best idea is still to buy a smart
charger and save yourself the headaches. Also LiPo’s require a smart charger;
failure to use a smart charger could result in a fire, as previously stated
LiPo’s are much more volatile.
“Lipo
Ready”
LiPo Ready is an
interesting term that is popping up more and more and needs to be addressed as
it can be confusing. First and foremost an interesting fact is that all guns by
basic definition are “LiPo Ready”, as in a LiPo battery can be plugged into any
gun, assuming the connectors are compatible. In reality all competition level
AEG’s can accept a 7.4v LiPo battery with minimal additional stress on the
internals of the gun. So in a sense all guns are “LiPo Ready”. The real trick
to being LiPo Ready is having quality internal parts that can withstand high
rates of fire and having a trigger system that will withstand the higher
voltages. True LiPo ready guns have above average internal components and also
include a MOSFET trigger. To make an extremely long story short a MOSFET allows
higher voltages to be used without burning out the trigger contacts which will
happen when running higher voltage LiPos such as an 11.1v. To sum it up for a gun to be higher voltage/current
ready the gun should have upgraded internal components as well as a MOSFET
trigger system of some sort.
Guide to Basic Maintenance
Basic care and maintenance
is important with any type of machine whether it be your airsoft gun or your
car they both require a certain amount of care and preventive measures to help
extend the life. Just like other complex machines your airsoft gun will
eventually malfunction and require repair. The following tips are designed to
help prolong the life of yours airsoft guns but should not be considered an exhaustive
guide nor will it guarantee that your gun will never break.
General
- Make sure the barrel is free
of jams before firing and stop firing if the gun jams
- Make sure the gun is
properly lubricated using pure silicon oil (not using actual gun oil or WD-40)
- Store all magazines unloaded
- Clean gun after each use
- Do not perform maintenance
in which you are not qualified to perform, while something may seem easy enough
it can lead to problems down the road
- Always use high grade BBs
and avoid the BBs sold a large retailers and department stores
- Do not use the BBs that come
with the gun, in many cases these are low grade BBs and could cause problems
- Do not reuse BBs as they can
be dirty or warped which can cause jams which can lead to part failures
- Keep the gun out of the
elements rain, snow, mud, and various other conditions can be catastrophic to
an airsoft gun
- Start with the hopup turned
off and adjust it up gradually, keeping it all the way on can cause jams
AEG
Specific
- Before storing the gun
remove the magazine and switch the gun to semi auto and pull the trigger
several times (with the battery in). This will allow the gun to reset the
piston to is correct placement which relieves spring tension and will extend
the life of your AEG significantly
- Discharge NiMH batteries
completely before storage (do not discharge LiPos)
- Change batteries as soon as
you notice a decrease in performance additional stress will be caused by
running off a weak battery
- Use a smart charger or
charge very carefully using the guidelines provided in the battery section
- Remove batteries before
storing the gun
- Minimize the time spent on
the trigger, the longer your full auto bursts are the more likely damage will
occur. Shoot short 3-8 round bursts, this will again extend the life of the AEG
- Use at least .20g BBs
- Use no higher than .25g BBs
in a stock mid-range AEG
Gas
Specific
- Use only the gas specified
in the manual
- Do not use Red Gas unless
they manual specifically states to do so. (Very rare)
- Be sure you’re filling the
gas straight down into the gas reservoir
- Never leave the
magazine/reservoir/gun completely empty but rather leave enough gas for just a
few shots (1-3). This will extend the life of your O-rings
- Do not dry fire a gas gun
(firing without BBs)a
- Add silicon oil to the top
valve of the magazine every 4-6 usages
- If using Propane in place of
Green Gas be sure to add a few drops of silicon oil into the mixture, its best
to buy an adapter that has a reservoir for this
- Use at least .20g BBs
- Do not use the valve at the
top of the magazine to release gas pressure; doing can damage O-rings
- Fill the
magazine/gun/reservoir in short bursts
- Do not use during cold
seasons
- Limit rate of fire and if
you notice the magazine getting cold allow it time to warm but, failure to do
so can cause damage
Disclaimer: The
following views and opinions are meant as suggestions only! Use of our
suggestions is at the sole discretion of the reader. We always recommend you
talk with your local paintball and/or airsoft shop before you use or work on
any airsoft products.
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